How to lay tiles on the kitchen apron

Laying the tile correctly, especially if it has a chamfer, can be a daunting task. But, with some patience, a tool and minimal knowledge, it’s quite possible to do everything with your own hands. The main thing is to make all the calculations correctly, distribute your own forces and be prepared for certain difficulties.

Foundation preparation

Any tile, and the hog is no exception, requires appropriate preparation of the walls

This nuance should be given special attention, since the final result depends on it.

Some masters prefer to “flatten” the minimal differences in the plane with tile adhesive, which is quite true for deviations from the plane of 1–2 mm. In all other cases, it is recommended to use cement-sand plaster.

Before each stage of work, whether it is leveling or gluing tiles, it is always necessary to degrease and prime the base. This will significantly increase the adhesion of the wall and lay the "boar" in a high-quality manner. If the rough coating is smooth, concrete surfaces - ideally it is advisable to additionally treat the concrete with contact.

How to lay in corners

The format of the plate already initially involves the implementation of many cuts during the laying process. The main inconvenience is the chamfer, which is why it is not easy to smoothly trim

It is necessary to pay attention to smooth angles and high-quality joints

Most masters prefer to cut sections at 45 degrees, which entails high costs for the customer. That is why it is ideal if there are as few joints as possible.

It is very inconvenient to put a "boar" in the corners, both internal and external. Usually in such places the usual cutting of tiles is performed. The butt can be further processed, for example, with a conventional fine sandpaper.

Next, the tile is expanded so that the clipping falls inside the row, and the whole edge is directed to the corner. This will make the junction of two vertical surfaces perfectly smooth and clear. If the “boar” is without chamfer, the work is even easier to complete. Especially when it comes to the external angle for which the skid is made.

Styling technology

There are different ways of labeling a “wild boar,” however, the “popular” option is considered the most popular. In addition, some designers order styling with an offset of 20-50% or a herringbone.

One of the conditions for successful work is to maintain the same distance between each plate. Otherwise, there is a probability of horizontal displacement, which will make the final result, to put it mildly, uninteresting in principle.

When choosing a tile with a chamfer, it is worth considering that it requires special scrupulousness when performing a seam. The volume of the plates focuses quite a lot of attention on itself, why all the flaws and nuances become very noticeable.

The seam must be made perfectly even, as thin as possible, regardless of the method of laying the "boar" and the color of the selected grout mixture. It is advisable to negotiate all these points with the master before starting work.

Immediately you need to understand which crosses are best for tiles. Actually, they set the width of the seam.

If with a traditional classic tile the choice of a 2–5 mm cross is considered quite normal, which allows you to hide any inaccuracies and inaccuracies with the help of a planer, but in the case of a “boar” this is unacceptable. This kind of plate looks perfect with a seam up to 1.5 mm. That is why no flaws should be allowed here.

Calculation and marking of vertical rows

Since the “wild boar” has a specific profile, it is recommended to think over the question regarding its placement on the wall before laying.

A similar situation with the skirting board, in the case of laying tiles to the floor. Otherwise, the “boar” will look bad due to the loose fit of objects or the baseboard, as well as the appearance of noticeable gaps.

That is why, before laying the tile, you need to make an accurate calculation of the placement of the first row, as well as the total number of plates. Usually, the masters are given an additional laying scheme. Knowing which crosses for the tile in thickness will be used and the size of the plates, it is possible with a minimum error of up to 1 mm to complete the task.

Horizontal displacement and "spacing"

As the name implies, the tile is laid in horizontal rows. A feature of the method is the need to offset each subsequent row relative to the previous one. In this case, the most important thing is to keep the “horizontal”, otherwise the tile will “float”.

Ideally, if you use a laser level for these purposes, with which it is almost impossible to make any mistakes or miscalculations.

Horizontally without offset

This method is very disliked by the master, because it requires the utmost accuracy and care. The tile is laid one above the other, without displacement. Therefore, some call it stacked. The option looks simple and stylish at the same time.

An incredible effect can actually be achieved by using a contrasting grout, but the main thing here is not to overdo it. Well, if a professional designer helps with the choice of color.

Vertically

The styling option with an offset cannot be called classic or traditional, but it also has a right to exist. Its meaning is similar to the horizontal placement of the plates. The method is quite complicated, but the result of the work done will definitely please.

Stackable vertical laying without displacement will surprise with its laconicism and simplicity. Each new tile is placed strictly above the previous plate. The main thing is to maintain vertical rows and grout properly.

Diagonally

Very difficult, but incredibly stylish way. All plates are placed strictly at an angle of 45 degrees relative to the horizontal, which is very difficult to control. This apron looks elegant and modern.

An ideal solution for a small kitchen, since the selected installation option allows you to visually expand the room and make it somewhat larger. In this case, it is recommended to choose a grout in tone with the tile.

The layout is otherwise called a “corner” or “zigzag”. Each tile is laid relative to another plate at an angle of 90 degrees.

The option is the most difficult, but it looks very impressive. The main problem for the tiler is maintaining the contiguity plane of the “vertical” and “horizontal” “boar”. The layout of the "herringbone" requires a certain experience from the performer and the presence of appropriate skills.

Alternative methods

You can lay the tiles differently.

If all of the above options seem boring and uninteresting to you, then you should pay attention to the so-called "parquet dies." It is easy to get acquainted with all possible performances on the specialized resources of the "SUVs"

There are really a lot of options, from incredibly interesting offers to the most original designs.

Material calculation

The number of tiles is equally determined by the laying methods and dimensions of the kitchen apron. Calculations are needed for each project, since they take into account all the possible nuances.

• As a rule, the height of the zone is 55–75 cm, but often in the kitchen a wall is tiled to the floor.
• If the material is laid out on the wall to the countertop, then the tile will be correctly laid so that the edge of the ceramic is 2 cm below the edge of the countertop, otherwise moisture and dirt will accumulate in the joints.
• At least in one area, the height of the apron should reach 75 cm - this is the distance from the countertop to the hood.

• Be sure to have sockets on the wall: in the kitchen - there are too many household appliances to get by with one available outlet. Their placement is determined in advance and taken into account when laying the apron. Sockets can also be mounted on a table, however this option is used less often.
• The skirting board between the wall and the table protects the joints. Whether or not to use a border is the owner's choice, but without a baseboard, even a plastic one, the risk of dirt accumulating and bacteria multiplying is much higher.
• The whole tile, of course, looks more aesthetically pleasing. When choosing a laying method, they try to choose the dimensions of the apron and tile so that only whole fragments should be laid out on the wall, especially in height.

Surface preparation

The primary stage of work is surface preparation. First you need to completely remove the old coating. Usually, a perforator is used for this, then the wall is cleaned to a plaster layer.

After that, shallow notches are applied to the wall for maximum adhesion of tile adhesive to the surface. The number of notches is about 200 pcs. per 1 square meter.

The next step in preparing the wall is to treat the required area with a special primer. For uniform application of the primer on the wall, a foam roller can be used. After processing, the wall should dry.

Before directly laying the kitchen apron, markings should be applied on which the upper and lower borders are marked, fixing the bars on them. In this case, the upper bar is fixed at 0.5 - 1 cm above the intended border. This stock is needed for the upper seam.

It is especially necessary to fix the lower bar. This is due to the fact that during laying the tile does not move down and has clear and precise boundaries. All work will depend on how correctly lay out the first row. If it is as beautiful and even as possible, the apron will look like it was made by a high-level professional. Any displacement or shift can lead to a violation of the whole species.

How to calculate tiles for an apron or floor in the kitchen

We count the tiles in rows, for this we divide the height of the wall by the vertical size of the tile and thus get the number of rows up, and divide the wall width by the size of the tile horizontally and get the number of rows in the horizontal. The resulting numbers must be rounded up.

There are important points to consider before proceeding with the calculation of tiles for laying in the kitchen, briefly about them:

It is important to determine how the work will be carried out, about the possible options we wrote above in the article. Half of the tile should always be considered as a whole, and be sure to count the tiles on each wall individually

If stacking is performed ‘’ butt-to-butt ’’, increase the counted amount by 5%, while laying diagonally, increase the amount of material to 15%.
You need to understand whether there will be a plain apron or there will be an ornament and inserts.
What size tile is planned.
The presence or absence of a drawing. When adjusting the picture, a lot of scraps can come out, so increase the amount of material by 20%.

The amount of glue and grout you will always find on the packaging in the instructions, you will already know the laying area.

Step-by-step installation instructions

If you plan to mount a kitchen apron with your own hands, work begins with the preparation of surfaces. It is necessary to determine the location of the tile so that the outlet is in the center of one product. The appearance of the lining will improve, since the surface will look more neat. Laying of the coating starts from the edge or the center point of the working area.

In the case when you need to make an apron for the kitchen yourself from a tile with a pattern, a scheme is thought out. The hardest thing to do with mosaic. The installation process is more time-consuming, but with the help of such material it will be possible to get an interesting pattern.

Preparation and marking of kitchen walls

First you need to remove the old coating, and along with the dark and plaster areas that peel off. These jobs are easy to do with a hammer drill. Then you need to align the wall using a plaster composition. It is recommended to make small notches on the surface, which will contribute to improving the adhesion of the adhesive for tiles with plaster. A reinforcing mesh is used for the same purpose, but it is preferable to choose this option if it is necessary to put the tile on the apron in the form of a mosaic.

The next step is marking on the wall. In this case, you need to transfer the sketch to the work surface. To get a straight line from below, a wooden beam is installed, support it with a building level. The vertical boundaries of the apron are determined using a plumb line.

Knead and put the adhesive solution

Preparation of the mixture is carried out immediately before the start of decoration. If the work is supposed to be voluminous, it is recommended to prepare a small amount of glue. To do this, dilute the dry composition with water. Then apply a construction mixer to get a uniform consistency solution. In order to ensure high quality fasteners, a good adhesive mixture is selected. It must be kept for 10-15 minutes before use.

Laying the apron begins with the surface treatment with adhesive. It is applied to a large area with a narrow spatula. Using a notched trowel, excess is collected and the surface is leveled. After that, it is recommended to immediately begin installing the apron. If you hesitate, the solution will dry out and lose its properties.

DIY styling process

To make a beautiful coating, take into account the location of the kitchen. Laying tiles on the apron is done from the edge, if the kitchen is angular

Otherwise, it is better to start installation from the central point of coverage of the working area.

Possible styling methods:

• glue is applied to the surface of the wall, while the lining will be easy to install,
• mix the tile.

The choice of method will not affect the strength of the lining fastening. When mounting the tile on a rough surface, slightly press it. Then use a mallet so that the product takes the correct position. Apply a building level to check surface quality. Laying mosaics on the apron is made using the same technology.

How to make holes for sockets

Before mounting the cladding in the wall, holes are prepared for the socket. For this purpose, a perforator is used, special crowns with diamond coating. Holes are made in the facing material by means of a drill with a winning tip. Pre-tile is soaked in water. This measure reduces the likelihood of chips. You must correctly mark the product, for which you need a ruler and a pencil.

Grouting

This work is started one day after the end of the tile installation. To make the apron for the kitchen with your own hands more attractive, grout the suture joints. It is applied with a rubber spatula. Moreover, a portion of the mixture is used more than at first glance it is required to fill the opening.

Then, with the same spatula, excess is removed from the tile, for which the tool is carried along the seam, tightly pressing it to the surface. In order for the suture connection to acquire the desired shape (in the form of a recess), a cable is laid on top. It must be pressed lightly. The surface of the cladding is immediately cleaned of grout.

How to cut an apron tile

There is a whole set of tools for cutting tiles (read the article about the tool)

When using a manual tile cutter, glass cutter or turning tool, it will not be out of place to make an incision along the ruler. Further, the incision area is slightly tapped on the back of the tile. Then the tile is broken by hitting the corner of the table or the edge of the bar, etc.

If we use a lever tile cutter, then the tile is laid on the bed, pressed against the guide mark in the center.The lever is retracted and a sharp movement of the roller makes an incision in the glaze, after which the tile breaks down by moving the lever down.

In the case of using the “grinder” (remember the protection of the respiratory system), the disc makes a light cut in the line, after which the tile easily breaks. Sawing the tiles completely does not make much sense.

Step three - we clean and prepare the walls before laying

If you have already made repairs, for example, in the bathroom, you can safely be called a specialist. You know perfectly well how to properly remove old material, make a calculation of the adhesive composition, clean the walls with your own hands.

Preparing the wall for laying tiles

If you are starting this process for the first time in the kitchen, the preparation will take place in several stages. How long does it take? Let's select a day - this is enough time to put putty and eliminate all irregularities. So, we will begin the preparation with our own hands.

The first is to remove the old coating. If before that there was a tile in the kitchen, we dismantle it. You need to do this with a punch. We clean the entire wall to the plaster layer. Wallpaper is removed with water and a spatula. Wet the entire wall and clean the wall with a spatula. Paint can also be removed with your own hands. The easiest way is to purchase a special solvent. But you can do this with improvised means - a hairdryer and a spatula. Heat the paint and clean it with a spatula.

Next, you need to check the density of the plaster layer. Plaster should not crumble from the wall. If you see bumps, holes, bumps, use putty. Use it to level the surface of the wall so that visually it looks flat and does not have strong differences in height

Apply putty with a narrow spatula.

Particular attention should be paid to the corners. If the kitchen apron moves to another wall, the angle should be perfectly flat

After the putty dries, draw notches across the wall. This must be done in order to glue better.

Another point: when you remove the old material, look at the surface of the plaster. Did you see mold spots or fungus there? Before laying the tile, it is worth finishing the wall with a fungicide. This substance will not allow mold to “creep” further.

For those who have never encountered repairs in the bathroom, in the kitchen and generally begin such a process for the first time, a video of already “experienced” masters will come to the rescue. See how to properly remove paint and old tiles.

Wiring before installing the apron

We finish all installation work - in this situation, we are required to conduct an electric wire in the strobe for the hood. With a grinder, a puncher or a hammer with a chisel along the intended line, we make a shtroba 1 cm deep.

Using a brush, primer the stroba and the surface next to it. We put a wire into it and fix it with a solution of gypsum. That's it, the first working day is over. Our kitchen at the end of the day looks something like this.

Over the next day, you and I will have to align the walls, make a notch in the places where the walls are painted, finish all preparatory activities for the facing work.

This is where the work of the first day ends.

How to grout?

Seams are considered a vulnerable part of the apron. Therefore, for maximum durability and a pleasant appearance of the kitchen apron, you need to choose a product from a trusted manufacturer. It is not recommended to rub them with white grout. On a white background, dirt from cooking is most clearly visible.

The mixture is diluted with water in the consistency specified in the instructions. Before processing the seams, you need to wipe the tile from dust left after laying.

To perform this operation, it is better to use a rubber spatula. The mixture is rubbed in the direction along and across until the joints are evenly filled. This stage is quite thorough and requires no less care and accuracy. Otherwise, the seams will be different, and the appearance of the apron will lose attractiveness.

Seams usually dry out within one hour. Then you can trim them with a spatula, and wipe with a dry or damp cloth.

For greater gloss and reliability, you can cover the seams with special varnish. This will greatly simplify the maintenance of the working area, and the seams themselves will retain their original appearance longer. The special properties of the varnish will prevent the penetration of moisture and fat on the seams.

Steps for laying a tile apron

How to lay tiles in the kitchen on the apron can be seen in the video. This will greatly simplify the work. Although the whole process is not so complicated. It is divided into several stages:

Make markup
Based on the dimensions of the kitchen, determine the size of the apron

Where to start laying, you can decide for yourself, but it is important to consider where the trimmed edges will be. The level is set horizontally with a wooden beam, it will hold the tile itself during operation

A plumb line is vertically loaded with a load.
Adhesive solution
It is necessary to do everything according to the instructions, the only way you can be sure that everything will be held securely.
Stacking
The easiest way to lay tiles in a standard way. It is also easier and faster to work with large tiles: fewer joints - easier installation. Glue is applied to the wall, tiles are applied on top, which must be set with a rubber mallet. If necessary, you can remove the glued piece and repeat the procedure, but this can be done until the glue is seized. You can start the next row only after the previous one has dried. Crosses are set horizontally and vertically between the fragments for holding the same size of the seam.

Laying tiles in a standard way, combining with a pattern

If you still have questions, how to put tiles in the kitchen on the apron, you can use the photo. They depict all the steps in more detail. Obviously, all the work will not take much time. It can be done with your own hands even by a novice in this business. The main thing is attentiveness and accuracy.

Useful Wizard Tips

If you have experience working with tiles closer to zero, or if repair time is very short, you should choose a large format tile, although it costs more. It will be easier for a beginner to manage it, and the installation time will be significantly reduced. But if everything is in order with the skills, you can choose a lining with a side of 10 cm - it looks best on the kitchen wall.

Calculating the required number of tiles, you need to rely on measurements of the walls under the cladding. But the final result will have to be increased by another 10% - that’s how much it will take to trim and a possible battle.

The instructions for the tile usually indicate which adhesives or solutions are suitable for working with it.

A universal option is fine-grained cement-sand mortar, but it is important to prepare it correctly, otherwise over time the heavy tile will begin to come off the wall

For the mixture you will need cement (1 part) and sand (4 parts). The sand needs to be clean and very small so that the solution holds the tile well. At first dry components are thoroughly mixed, and water is added to them in small portions. As a result, the mixture should be homogeneous and sufficiently viscous.

Where to begin

If the furniture is installed, then measure the distance from the top of the countertop to the bottom of the cabinets - so you can calculate the number of tiles required. Most often it happens within 60–80 cm, but a few more tiles may need to be laid above the stove.

After calculating the required number of tiles, you can go to the store. Since consumables and tools are required, check the list to see if you have everything. We will need:

• tile,
• crosses (there are different sizes, but the most running 2 mm),
• primer for walls,
• adhesive for tiles (based on 6-7 kg per 1 m2),
• waterproof grout for joints,
• grout primer,
• rubber spatula (for grouting),
• ordinary spatula
• spatula with comb
• roulette,
• construction level (bubble),
• electric drill with mixer tip,
• tile cutter (if necessary),
• SD profile.

If this is not a new building, then you will need to clean the wall from whitewash or paint. This will require some tools and fixtures that are applicable for a particular case. Consider in more detail the type of coating applied and how to remove it.

• Wallpaper. To remove them, you will need a bucket of warm water and a handful of washing powder. Incisions are made randomly on the wallpaper, and then the entire surface is abundantly wetted with the prepared liquid. After a while, the wallpaper will become wet and can be removed with a narrow spatula.
• Tile. You will need a hammer drill with a spatula (or a hammer and chisel). The direction of impact should be directed under the tile, otherwise you can repel the plaster. We definitely need protective equipment, because the tiles crumble from the blows, and these small and sharp fragments scatter in different directions.
• Paint. Depending on how firmly it holds, you will need a different tool. It can be a narrow spatula, scraper, building hair dryer and even a punch with a spatula.
• Nabela. The easiest way is to remove the whitewash with a spatula, scraping off the applied layer. The work is dusty, so you can soak them with soapy water, stick on newspapers and then peel them off, clean them with a vacuum cleaner (only non-domestic).
• Plaster. The existing plaster can be of very poor quality, as the builders “forgot” to put the right amount of cement in it. Often it is possible to strengthen a fragment of a wall intended for a tile by applying reinforcing impregnation for plaster on it. If this option is not suitable, then it is better to remove the layer of plaster from the entire wall to a solid foundation and plaster again.

Features of kitchen tile apron

The adhesive under the ceramics should lie evenly, without air cavities. Beautiful, but very fragile material has to be washed repeatedly, sometimes with effort. It is unlikely that it will fall out, but it will crack - for sure.

And the strip above the work surface should adorn, delight. The cooking process is laborious, something has to invigorate. Choosing beautiful tiles is half the battle. They harmonize the top, bottom of the headset, are a significant part of the interior. Make no mistake with the design!

Pottery - three thousand years or more

Designers insist on paying attention to the following points:

• No seams should be laid, 2 mm, 1 mm, but should be,
• It is necessary to bring part of the tile down under the table level,
• The edge of the upper row is set under the upper lockers,
• Above the hob, put higher, if the exhaust sleeve without facade linings - put under the most exhaust hatch,
• In the corners of the turns, on the turns of the apron, do not lay small cuts,
• From the corner left / right - there should be identical pieces of tiles,
• 2/3 of the tile length - good cut, half tile - tolerable, smaller sizes are better to exclude,
• The main, the most difficult thing is to combine the pattern of the apron with the system of kitchen furniture.

Tiles for masonry

The best solution is to lay ceramic tiles after installing the kitchen. There are several reasons for this:

1. The geometry of the assembled buildings is never clearly set according to the level, because of which the tile can be skewed by a few millimeters. The run-up at the edges in total can reach one or more centimeters, which is especially noticeable when laying small tiles measuring 10 by 10 cm.
2. Not all hanging kitchen cabinets are adapted for wall mounting, taking into account the laid tiles. Often the bottom of the suspension module is protruding, which is clearly visible from the end. If the lower modules are adjacent to the tile, a gap is often formed between them.
3. The most important thing is that after installing the furniture set it is easier to choose the design of the apron and the tonal combination of tiles.

As for the styling methods, the most popular among housewives is the chess pattern, one-color kitchen apron.

In addition to such classic options, ceramic tiles can be laid on the wall:

in a straight line

with a slight offset

In addition, tiles can be put with a wicker, maze or Christmas tree.

If the above options do not suit you, you can do so - from the one-color tile, perform the main background and ornament it with another.

We offer several styling options:

1. Insert with multi-colored drawings. For registration, tiles of the same size as the main tile with a flat or embossed pattern are selected, which stands out against the general background. You can lay them pointwise throughout the kitchen apron or neat panel.
2. Decorative stained glass window. This technique is typical for kitchen interiors made in Provence, classic or country. A beautiful ornament is assembled from individual tiles, which is placed in the center of the wall and becomes the accent of the composition.
3. Frieze, border. Tiles of a rectangular shape are laid out along the lower or upper border of the kitchen apron. The frieze located in the very center of the apron looks original.
4. A pencil is a narrow, long insert that is usually used to hide “patches” between tiles. It allows you to not perform uncomfortable cutting tiles.

Preparing the wall for laying

The wall should be cleaned very carefully so that it remains clean for further work:

1. Wallpaper should be removed completely, do not leave pieces and traces,
2. the plaster should be knocked down, if brickwork was used, then it is primed,
3. the wooden frame is treated with special impregnation, sometimes a primer or fastening of a serpentine tape is also necessary,
4. smooth, prime and dry the entire surface. Make sure there are no voids in the wall.

Wall alignment is fast enough. We dilute the plaster by making a loose solution. We throw parts of the solution onto the surface and level it. It is not necessary to do everything perfectly smooth. It is necessary to ensure that no gaps remain between the profile and the wall.

Tile selection

The tile from which the tile is made is today the most popular material for an apron. It is universal and has resistance to pollution, moisture, high temperature. At the same time, it is quite easy to care for. And thanks to the variety of color palette and colors, it fits perfectly into any kitchen interior.

Tiles come in various shapes. In order to create an atmosphere of comfort and harmony, it is better to give preference to the shades of the pastel group in the choice of color.

When choosing a tile, it is important to consider its size. Despite the fact that there is less work with larger parts, the most beautiful appearance is the apron made of small tiles. In addition, such dimensions allow you to decorate the apron with different patterns, mosaics and combinations. The best option today is a square tile with a rib size of 10 - 15 cm.

In order to keep the apron as simple as possible, it is better to choose a material with a smooth surface structure. This will allow you to easily remove dirt, returning the apron a presentable appearance.

When working, it is important to consider the stock of material. Often tiles can have a marriage. Chipping is not excluded during the trimming process, so the material is usually taken with a margin of 10% of the required amount.

Determine the size of the apron, the calculation of the material

Let's say the furniture system is adjacent to two walls - long and short. One of the ends of the headset has a turn near the front door. That is, the layout of the letter “G”.

Difficulties:

• start with a single tile left and right,
• do not grind with small cuts inside the corner,
• precisely determine the bottom edge of the calculation.

A seam of 2 mm is selected. So, the calculations should operate with a 202 mm module, and not at all 200 mm tiled ones. An adjacent layer will “pick up” 18 mm from the corner edge (where 1 cm is the thickness of the adhesive layer, and 0.8 cm is the thickness of the tile itself). But from the total length of the masonry, it claims to be its end-molding. He is 15 mm.

We draw a strip for tiling on the plastered wall, considering:

The distance from the floor to the edge of the bottom row of tiles

The distance from the surface of the countertop to the middle seam

The distance from the bottom edge of the cabinets to the middle seam

850 + 20 + 330 = 1200

where 850 is the height of the bottom of the headset

330 - the visible part of the height of the tile, without leaving 50 (mm)

20 - the width of the table covering the apron and the apron molding

70 - leaving for lockers

330 - half h of tile

From this it can be seen that the pedestal, together with the tabletop and corner molding, will be covered not with 5 cm of the lower row of tiles, but with all 7. We shift (increment) the shift of 2 cm to mark the horizontal axis. The upper row of tiles with its lower edge will lie at the level of (850 + 20) + 1.5 + 330 = 1201.5 (mm). Strip 661.5 is the visible part of the apron, neatly divided by one horizontal seam.

It’s easy to calculate the number of tiles purchased - you need to add as much to the total area S2 as you need to trim. Cut tiles are used only once, so you do not need to be smart. On the economical use of pieces: dimming the shine, the mismatch of the corners, the secondary use of the mean will give out.

It should be noted: The simplest example is given, but for the most optimal apron height - about 660 mm, as well as for the standard height of kitchen tables - 850 mm.

For beginners, we do not offer patterned, striped, panels, relief decors. But if you load this on yourself the first time, you should draw all your ideas with charcoal, adjusting vertical lines behind horizontal seams.

Preparation for work and the necessary tools to lay out an apron in the kitchen

Tiles were purchased, the required volume of dry tile adhesive was purchased. What tool will you still need?

• spatula 15 cm - for kneading and cleaning around,
• notched trowel - remove ridges,
• metal grater
• sponge grater
• paint roller
• drip level,
• drill + mixer nozzle,
• hacksaw for metal + diamond string,
• drill “ballerina”, diamond drill,
• two buckets
• pieces of foam (drywall),
• laser level,
• crosses 1.5,
• joiner's pencil, felt-tip pen.

At paragraph twelfth of household chores, the master will exclaim: “Is such an expensive thing to buy?” We parry the exclamation: the instruction is not intended for the master who knows how to attach the bottom row support from the rule, profile, attaching it with dowels, or even propping it with a stick. The pros are inventive. The novice master with a laser will display the corners in the entire apartment, correct the wallpaper, the skirting board. It turns out the necessary thing to the au pair.

Markup

The bottom row is defining. For the initially selected type of tile 400 x 200 mm, only one line is needed: level 820 from the floor. This is if the floor is laid. And if not? The situation when the apron is laid before working with the flooring is largely true. Why stain the finish floor? In this case, the level of 830 must be raised from the concrete screed. The tile floor has h = 20 mm (laminate flooring is less than 15 mm). Add 20 - all 850 work.

We put a laser level on a tripod, highlight one single line - the edge of the bottom row.

Glue solution preparation

Pour a little water into the bucket (so that dry powder does not become sediment). We put on a respirator, open the bag, fall asleep. For a length of L 3 m, h 0.8 m you will need 5 kg of glue, that is, 1/5 of a 25 kg bag.

Gradually add water from a plastic bottle until a thick slurry forms. Powder spraying along the sides of the bucket is scraped off with a spatula, return to the total mass. The resulting slurry is kept for 5 minutes, mix with the mixer again. The glue is ready.

Conclusion of wires and sockets

We drill holes. The nests of the rosettes are ditched free in order to maneuver the opportunity. The cups are placed after laying the apron (not before!). We attach the tile with the paint brush, mark the top / bottom of the circle vertically, also horizontally. We put it on drywall (thick foam is suitable), drill a ballerina (you can use a “crown” - diamond spraying). It’s good when someone pours water from a bottle while drilling. Then the air is clean. Otherwise, wear a respirator. Try on, glue, level the level. Only after that we fix the cup of the undergrowth with the remnants of glue, taking the edges of the cup flush (flush).

Similarly, drill holes for hooks, roof rails, freely exiting wires. A diamond drill is the best helper. Take into account the need for strict horizontality of each of the pairs.

Video

Preparation may take a week. But putting ceramics will be easy. The main thing is not to go astray, to go clearly according to plan, from the main - to the little things. Spreading every tile like a sandwich, adjusting the trim without laying the main front means getting stuck, and for a long time. Learning to do it right!

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We determine the size of the apron and calculate the material

To make an apron in the kitchen with your own hands, you need to determine the consumption of material. And for this - to specify the size of the area on which the work will be carried out. Here you can focus on standard parameters:

• The entire working area is about 55-75 cm in height from the level of the countertop, although it can even reach the floor - a lot depends on the location of the kitchen tables,
• Ceramic tiles must necessarily go under the countertop at least 20 mm - so that dirt and water do not accumulate in the joints,
• From above, the apron is mounted before the hood - this technique is mounted at a height of 65 or 75 cm from the electric and gas stove, respectively,
• The horizontal size of the working surface is the entire length of the corresponding wall, although you can limit yourself to the “sink-desktop-stove” section only.

Be sure to do all the necessary calculations. And for this - decide how you put the apron. There are a lot of ways of masonry, but among them the most popular can be distinguished:

• Standard (basic)
• Diagonal,
• Imitating brickwork.

It is easiest to implement the basic method with your own hands, and material overrun in this case will be minimal.

Advice! Do not forget that in the process of work damage to the material, chips and so on is possible. Therefore, tiles are always purchased with a 10% minimum margin.

What do we need

To lay out a kitchen apron with your own hands, you will need devices:

• Puncher for cleaning old coatings,
• A screwdriver, supplemented by a special device for mixing the adhesive composition - a mixer,
• Buckets for water and glue with a capacity of at least 10 liters each,
• Spatula for working with the adhesive mixture: narrow for - a set of glue, serrated - for distribution, rubber - for working with seams,
• Building levels - short - to check the location of each individual tile and long - to check the entire plane,
• Tile cutter and nippers, a block of abrasive for cutting tiles, correction of breakaway areas,
• Rubber mallet to check the tightness of the apron
• Crosses and pegs that allow you to set the thickness of the seam,
• Hard pencil, ruler,
• Cord (beating).

We prepare the walls

After the entire tool is cooked, you need to start preparing the work surface.

1. The wall is qualitatively cleaned from the previous coating. If the tile was laid on the wall, then a perforator will be required to clean it and the old mortar. In any case, the surface is cleaned to a plaster layer.
2. You should also check the adherence of the plaster layer - peeling elements are completely removed, after which all the irregularities are repaired.
3. It is important to make a perfectly even angle if the tile moves from wall to wall.
4. It is advisable to make incisions in the wall so that the adhesive solution better clings to its surface.

Advice! If salt, fungus or mold stains are found on the cleaned surface, it must be treated with a high-quality fungicide with anticorrosive properties.

Getting started step by step

Step 1. At the first stage, we do the markup with our own hands. The size of the apron, its upper and lower borders, you must determine, based on the dimensions of the headset. As a rule, the distance from the floor to the lower edge of the apron is 70-85 cm. And the height of the apron is 55-65 cm.

Advice! Where to start laying tiles from the center or from the edge, moving to the corner? This is for you to decide: if you start installation from the center, then the cropped tiles will be installed at the edges and in this case they should be the same size on the right and left, otherwise the apron will not look neat. If you have a corner kitchen and the edges of the apron in sight, then it is better to start laying from the edge so that the extreme tile is intact, and the trim are in the corner.

A flat wooden beam is installed at the horizontal level - it will support the tile from below, preventing it from moving out. Sometimes for these purposes use drywall sheets or metal profiles. And in order to make a vertical mark, a plumb line is installed - a cord with a load is attached at the top of the wall and released. Under the influence of gravity, the plumb creates an ideal vertical.

Step 2 After applying the marking, you need to make an adhesive solution with your own hands. If the mixture is not prepared correctly, in violation of the manufacturer's recommendations, then it will very quickly collapse and the apron will disappear.

In the process of work, it is also impossible to use a dried solution and it will not work out to dissolve, it will lose its adhesive properties.

Step 3 Then proceed to laying the apron. For beginners, it is best to make an apron using an honest way of laying. The size of the tile also matters - the larger it is, the easier it is to work, and it’s easier to care, since there are much fewer joints. Accordingly, the smaller the tile size, the more seams will be and the more difficult and longer it will be installed.

Doing it yourself in the following sequence:

Materials and tools for work

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare the necessary materials and devices. Primary components include:

1. Primer. With its help, reliable adhesion of the tile to the glued surface is ensured. The best choice that experts recommend is a deep penetration primer.
2. Glue for a tile. It must be of high quality with a shelf life. So that the work does not have to be redone, you need to purchase glue from trusted companies (Cerezit, Yunis, Bolars). For greater strength, you can add PVA glue to it.
3. The grout mixture must be waterproof and necessary to give the joints a beautiful, uniform appearance in thickness and volume. Due to the presence of colored grout, you can choose a mixture in one color scheme with tiles.
4. Notched trowel (for glue distribution).
5. Narrow spatula (for a set of glue).
6. Roulette.
7. Glass cutter (for cutting the right size) or tile cutter.

Secondary devices include:

1. Crosses for maximum accuracy of the pattern and the distance between the tiles.
2. Electric drill (for mixing the solution).
3. Building level.
4. Foam sponges (for removing excess tile adhesive).
5. Foam roller.

The condition of the wall for laying the apron

The walls are covered with old wallpaper in several layers. Plaster of 1974, loose, crumbles in places. The main wall is lightweight concrete with a wooden frame, also plastered.

In the corner of the room is the chimney shaft 62 × 37 cm, the distance from the door to the shaft is 256 cm, the distance from the shaft to the opposite wall is 156 cm, the distance from the wall to the window slope is 86 cm.

Tile apron in the kitchen

At the door and window, the tile starts from the floor and goes up to a height of 195 cm (7 rows and a border). In the rest of the space, the tile goes at the level of the countertop - 81 cm from the floor - in 4 rows - 108 cm + a border of 6 cm. The layout of the tile in expanded form looks like this:

Having drawn up a similar scheme, we can easily calculate the number of tiles and borders we need. Be sure to take a margin within 10%.

Apron material and tool

To make an apron of tiles in the kitchen, prepare the following materials:

• reinforced adhesive for tiles - at the rate of 5 kg / m2, i.e. 35 kg
• strengthening acrylic primer - 3 kg,
• crosses 2.5 mm - 400 pieces,
• gypsum plaster - 30 kg,
• gypsum building - 1 kg.

Tool

• notched trowel with a “tooth” size of 8 mm,
• wide spatula - 30-40 mm,
• spatula (12 mm),
• percussion electric drill with a drill for concrete 6 mm (or a perforator with a drill 6 mm),
• whisk for solution,
• hammer with a chisel,
• rubber mallet,
• wood screws (30 -50 pcs.), dowels,

Another tool

• serpentine tape
• a skein of thick thread
• building level 40 cm, building level 80-100 cm, building square 30-40 cm,
• construction plumb,
• 2 gypsum profiles or slats 4 meters long (necessarily equal)
• roller (fur or foam), brush,
• screwdriver or screwdriver with a nozzle for self-tapping screws,
• two tiled profiles for internal corners 250x8, one for external 250 × 8.

And further

• set of felt-tip pens, construction or simple pencil,
• a bucket for a solution and a primer of 10-15 liters (it is best to purchase a paint bucket - in the future there will be no problems with the disposal of the remainder of the solution: the solution is left overnight, then the bucket is tapped with a rubber mallet, and the solution drops dry),
• bags for construction waste - 5 pieces,
• old rags or rags.

This tool is enough to lay an apron of tiles in the kitchen.

Tile Cutting Method

An apron of tiles in the kitchen will necessarily require cutting the tiles. For cutting tiles, it is necessary to make a deep incision of the glaze and part of the shard of the tile, and then break the tile along the notch line.

For this purpose, you can use a lot of devices - a professional glass cutter, a turning cutter, a manual tile cutter (in the form of tweezers) or a lever (as the most commercially available), a hacksaw for metal with a string of titanium carbide alloy with tungsten, and finally an angle grinder ( grinder) with a tile drive. For a grinder it is necessary to choose a disk marked "for dry cutting".

When working with angle grinders it is necessary to have certain skills and remember that a lot of dust will appear during the work, which means that protection is necessary for the respiratory system. It is also worth hanging a wet sheet on the doorway so that the dust does not enter other rooms.

We remove the old wallpaper to the bottom

To do this, we collect warm water in our bucket, we throw there a whisper of washing powder, which must necessarily contain surfactants. On the wallpaper with a knife or a spatula, make cuts and with the help of a roller, we abundantly wet the surface.

After getting wet, the wallpaper will easily peel off the wall. We scrape them with a spatula.If there are several layers of wallpaper on the wall, we do the same with each layer. This is where trash bags come in handy. In the future, the wall is washed with clean water, removing the remaining wallpaper.

Stucco wall for laying an apron

We knock down old, poorly stucco plaster to the base. In our case, it is a brick. We moisten the brick abundantly with water, after drying - priming, using the same roller or brush.

The non-plastered parts of the wooden frame are linseed oil or treated with wood impregnation. After drying, we attach a serpentine tape to them, which we squeeze with screws. Next, primer and dry.

Also primer all the chips of the plaster parts of the frame. If the wooden structures are deep in the wall, a strip of drywall can be fixed to the screws.

Before reconstituting the plaster, we check ourselves: the wallpaper has been taken to the base, the old loose and poorly stuck plaster has been removed. When we tap the wall with a hammer, we do not find voids.

Thus: All surfaces prepared for leveling are primed and dried.

We start by measuring the planes and angles for laying the apron

We use a building level of 80-100 cm, a plumb line and a prepared gyro profile, or a direct rail. We check the verticality of the outer corners and the plane of the walls horizontally. The gaps between the flat profile plane and the wall should not exceed 5 mm.

We have an external corner - the chimney shaft, which has a deviation from the vertical of 2 cm. But due to the tight deadlines (it is necessary to finish all the work within five days) we will not plaster this corner.

To correct unevenness, for example, during the laying of tiles, we glue a piece of drywall, thereby aligning the deviations from the vertical.

We align the walls before laying the apron from the tile

Dry plaster mix in a bucket, according to the instructions. The solution should be loose, not very liquid and not very thick. With a small spatula, we spread the plaster cakes on the surface, with a large spatula - we level 30-40 cm. We cut off excess stucco with a profile or rail, we try to have one plane, both vertically and horizontally.

We carry out the alignment of the walls with stucco, but not plastering. In places where old stucco has been knocked down, we even out the layer of mortar with the remnants of the stuck stucco.

The surface after the start of the setting of the solution is smoothed with a wide spatula. To facilitate the work, you can slightly sprinkle the surface with water. But in this case there is no need for a perfectly smooth surface. We are more interested in the absence of gaps between the wall and the profile or the rack.

Notch on the paint for better fixing tiles on the apron

There is a lot of controversy among the masters as to whether to remove the old paint completely or remove only poorly held layers? In fact, the paint from the wall can be scraped off using a building hair dryer, various paint removers and other devices.

Before laying the tiles, we first primer the surface, thereby obtaining a polymer film, which is the old, well-held paint. Naturally, exfoliating and swollen areas are removed without fail, cleaned with a brush and primed. Grinding paint and whitewash are removed without fail.

Tiled apron in the kitchen

In our case, the paint holds very well, the paint film is solid, without traces of exfoliation, swelling and cracking. Therefore, in order for the adhesive solution, in addition to the paint, to hold onto concrete or plaster, we make a notch on the paintwork.

With a hammer with a chisel, punch, "grinder" we break through the film and part of the substrate. Up to 100 notches are best per square meter. Believe me, on the old plaster this work is not very difficult. We make a notch “grinder” with a cutting disc on concrete.

We cut a grid with a depth of notches up to 0.5-1 cm. Without fail, after the notch, the surface is primed. Risks should also be well primed using a brush.

Important! If the old plaster falls off during a notch, we naturally remove it and then - see above.

The results of the second day of laying tiles on the apron

We look at the plastered surfaces: they have already hardened, although the solution is slightly moist to the touch. At the end of the second day, completely primer all surfaces prepared for laying tiles.

Thus, on the second day, we leveled the walls with gypsum plaster, made a notch in places where we hold paint tightly, and primed all the surfaces on which the tile will be laid. We remove the garbage. Tomorrow we have the most difficult.

Laying tiles on the apron

The complexity of the preparatory work described above is due only to the fact that our tile apron in the kitchen is laid in the old building. I am sure that in buildings of a later construction such extreme preparatory work will not be required. Often, everything is limited to easy leveling and priming.

Typically, an apron of tiles in the kitchen is laid out from the so-called “red corner”: in the most prominent place, the corner is laid out from whole tiles, and clippings are done at the end of the rows.

Designation of the horizontal level of the first row of apron made of tiles

We start with the fact that we beat off a horizontal line along the perimeter of the kitchen using a laser level. The line is located on the upper edge of the third tile from the floor, i.e. at a height of 81.75 (82 cm).

Since the laser level is not often found on the farm, we do this:

We hang a plumb line along the doorway, thus obtaining a vertical mark, along which we will orient the tile.

We knead glue with an electric drill with a nozzle. Knead the glue exactly in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. When diluting the adhesive and applying it to the surface, remember that the performance of the diluted solution varies within 1-2 hours, the open time (during which the tile can be applied to the surface of the adhesive can be glued) - 10-20 minutes.

Apply glue with a notched trowel to the wall in the place where the tiles bordering the floor will be laid. By the way, we will apply glue to the wall in all cases, with the exception of corner tiles.

Apply a thin layer of glue with a narrow spatula to the back of the tile. Our tiles are heavy, so it won’t hurt. We do the same in the process of all work.

1st tile

We install the first tile on our apron from the tile in the kitchen. Slightly push it into the solution, with the help of a rubber mallet we upset it.

Using a short level, we expose the tile vertically and horizontally. If something needs to be put under the bottom to fix the tile in the correct position, we tear the box from under the tile and put pieces of paper. Everything that is at hand can be used.

Check the tile on the plane. To do this, apply a level to the glazed side of the tile. If the tile is not up to standard, remove it and attach or remove glue as necessary.

Important! The first tiles must be installed perfectly. The final result of our work with you depends on them.

2nd tile

Before installing the 2nd tile, pay attention to the picture. The pattern should be the same on all tiles, including cropped tiles. Usually on the back of the tile there is an arrow or other pointer. When laying, they should be in one direction.

We put the second tile, check it the same way, between the adjacent edges we set two crosses. Check the seam with your fingers - the transition should not be felt. On the first tile, install the third. Check the angle between the vertical side and the horizontal side of the second tile with a square.

4-5-6th tiles

In the same way we install the fourth, fifth and sixth tiles.

A long level checks the plane vertically, horizontally and diagonally. Between the cash side of the tile and the level we have no gaps. Crosses are set, as shown in the figure, between horizontal and vertical faces - 2 pieces per tile edge.

The cross can also be installed in the joint between the tiles. If there is a mismatch on the edges (in our case, this indicates a deviation of the tile geometry from the standard or a difference in size), in addition to the cross stitches, insert the same piece of paper from the box.

The numbers in the figure show the sequence of laying tiles in our case.

We lay further

The first six tiles are laid. And, if we did not do this first with a laser or water level, it is necessary to beat off the horizontal guide line and install supports for the tile.

To this end, we trim the prepared gypsum profile or rail in size from tile No. 6 to the wall, join the upper part of the profile or rail with the upper face of tile No. 6.

Tiles 7 and 8

We apply the level to the profile or rail and set it horizontally. We make two marks - at the beginning and near the wall. After that, with a pencil or a chopping cord (if one is found on the farm) we draw a straight line. We fix the profile along this straight line.

Directly through the profile we drill 2-3 holes, insert self-tapping screws with dowels and screw them all the way. Thus, we act along the entire perimeter of the surface, which is subject to facing. So, we have a temporary tile stand. We lay tiles No. 7 and No. 8.

Lighthouse tiles

We expose the "lighthouse" tiles. “Beacon” tiles or “beacons” are placed in order not to lose the horizontal and vertical rows and maintain the plane of laying. Subsequently, “beacons” are removed and used as ordinary tiles.

In the gap between the wall and the 8th tile, approximately in the center (it is important that the level is long enough to check the horizontal), we install the tile. We orient it in the same way as the tiles of the first row.

Tile 9

We put the next tile (in the figure under No. 9) near the inner corner. In the same way, we maintain verticality, horizontal positioning. Then we remove the intermediate tile, clean the solution from it and use the tile in the further lining.

On the “lighthouse” tile No. 9, we install the tile on the wall of the chimney shaft (No. 10). If you carefully look at the layout of the tile, you will notice that we put the full-fledged tile in the chimney shaft from the outer corner, reducing the trim to the corner. Therefore, having applied the level to the “lighthouse” tile, we beat off the horizontal line. On it we orient tile No. 10. We expose horizontally and vertically.

Tile number 10

No. 10 protrudes 2 cm beyond the border of the outer corner. For the convenience of work, you can pull the mooring cord (the thread for this we have in stock). In the figure, it is shown in red.

Above the distal ends of tiles No. 6 and No. 9, at the same distance (5-10 mm) above the upper faces of the tiles, we drill holes and screw the screws on the dowels. The hat should not reach the wall in both cases 15 mm.

We fasten and pull the thread along the hats. In the future, this will help us set the row correctly. You can repeat the option with the beating of the vertical and horizontal lines. This is done for our own convenience.

From the 8th tile towards the corner we continue to lay out a horizontal row. Having reached the “lighthouse” tile, we remove it, clean the solution and use it in the future.

The row is brought to the corner. It remains to put the trimmed tiles, make profiles and form the inner corner. We start with clipped tiles in the chimney shaft.

Measure the distance between the vertical edge of tile No. 10 and the inner corner with a tape measure, square. We subtract 7 mm from the size: 2.5 - the seam and 4.5 mm - the margin. Remembering the pattern on the tile, mark the cut line on the square with a felt-tip pen. On this line, we sharply make an incision on the glaze of the tile.

Laying trimmed tiles in the corners

Glue the trimmed tile to the wall, applying (this time) a layer of glue not on the wall (read about glue), as we did all this time, but on the back of the tile.

We put the tile and (this is important!) We expose the plane strictly vertically with a cut edge to the wall.

Orient the top face along the top side of adjacent tiles. The vertical seam should be strictly parallel to the vertical seam of the adjacent tile.

The crosses between them must be pressed. To do this, tear a piece of paper from the box and hammer it between the wall and the trimmed face.

In the same way, we measure and cut the tile along the first wall (do not forget about the picture). We measure the distance between the vertical face of the previous tile and the corner plane. We add 5 mm to the distance. Since the corner seam is formed from two cut edges, we lay the factory corner for the tile.

Setting the corner for the tile in the corner of the apron

To this end, we apply a layer of glue (completely) to the back of the trimmed tile with a notched trowel, and put a pre-trimmed profile on it. Then the trimmed tile is put in place. The profile for the tile, so that it does not hang in the loose part, can be pressed using masking tape.

Now report the vertical (at the beginning) and horizontal rows. There are three left. Exactly in the same sequence we lay out the tiles on the wall of the chimney and start the trimmed tiles in the profiles. The first inside corner is ready. We turn to the outer corner (Read about laying tiles in the corners of a separate article).

Immediately make a reservation, the tile laying scheme is not quite ordinary here. I already reminded about the deadlines. Therefore, the outer corner, in other conditions, it would be better to remove the plaster using a vertically mounted rail or perforated corner.

Stucco for the lazy

Often an apron of tiles in the kitchen requires a rough alignment of the plane vertically. Basically, the problem is solved quite simply: lighthouses are set, and the surfaces are given the desired shape using a stucco mortar.

Sometimes, for various reasons, plastering is not possible. There are a lot of reasons - the surface cannot be plastered (thin sheets of slate), the dimensions and geometry of the room do not allow lighthouses to be put up, the owner does not want to reduce the already tiny room by 1-2 cm of the stucco layer and so on. Tile work initially implies right angles and vertical laying.

How to be

I admit honestly, for the time being, I stretched the verticality by increasing the thickness of the glue layer. But this is not a way out, because under certain conditions peeling of a tile with a layer of glue can begin. The second option - adding a layer of solution after each stacked row - significantly lengthens the timing of the work.

The solution was unexpectedly prompted by one of the clients to whom the old master of the Soviet school put drywall on raising the layer! Gluing drywall - a technology known since Soviet times. I have already said that in this case, the repair time was limited, and we have two days ahead.

In addition, the end face of the chimney shaft has a constructive recess (most likely the pipe passed there before), which is impossible to close in one or two passes, the brick crumbles, forming through holes.

We make an additional notch on the surface of the shaft, plaster the notch with gypsum plaster, carefully primed (again), primed the back side of the dry-cut drywall sheet and after drying, we apply tile glue with slaps.

We press the sheet of gyrocock to the surface and achieve the vertical level, gently tapping the entire plane with a rubber mallet. The distance between the level attached to the tile number 11, and the surface of the glued sheet of gyproc is 1.5 cm

We will draw the sheet along the plane, after 15-20 cm with screws with dowels to the surface and tomorrow we will continue to lay the tile. Well, that’s what our kitchen looks like at the end of the third day.At the end of the day, do not forget to look at the laid tile and fix the flaws until the glue has hardened.

To the legitimate question about why we did not stick a sheet of drywall from the floor, the "legitimate" answer follows: we would lose about 3 cm of area. Furniture has already been ordered, and the struggle is for millimeters!

Tomorrow we have the plan to finish the turnkey laying. The day after tomorrow - grouting. Finish masonry

Third day of work

The next working day, we start by tapping laid tiles on an apron of tiles in the kitchen. If voids are found, it is better to remove the tile, peel off the adhesive layer and reposition it on a new one. The glue layer, in this case, is removed from the tile or from the wall (if the preparation is done correctly, the adhesive layer must remain on the wall), the surface is cleaned, primed and the tile is put back in place, avoiding the previous errors!

We pull a piece of drywall with screws to the wall. Self-tapping screws we select 51 mm long under the dowel 6 mm. We pass a drywall with a puncher or drill without impact, then turn on the impact and drill to the required depth. We make a “cartridge” (self-tapping screw-dowel), insert it into the hole and fix the self-tapping screw! The head of the self-tapping screw should be slightly recessed in drywall. We also screw the screws along the entire perimeter and the entire plane. Drywall is primed again.

We derive the internal angle, as described above.

Next wall

The next wall does not cause any particular problems for us: we put the tile by cutting it into a corner (the factory side goes to the tile, the cropped one goes to the corner).

All the rules for laying tiles - checking the level of vertical and horizontal, planes in all directions - remain valid. Did everything according to the scheme, now stop!

The last wall, if we look at the layout diagram, starts from the window in one full vertical row, i.e. from the floor and further there are four vertical rows plus a border.

According to the scheme, we see that the wall length is 86 cm. I.e. we get 2 tiles whole plus 5-6 cm cropped piece. How do you like it? I do not like. We do the trim to the size, as in the first inner corner - 12 cm. There is a full tile behind it and after it is trimmed, and a 32 cm tile adjoins the window slope.

In our masonry, we get a certain system. To simplify the work, we start from the floor three trimmed tiles of 32 cm in a vertical row. We follow the picture, the level of vertical, horizontal and plane. We draw the upper side under the broken horizontal line and end the row.

We also spread the corner trimmers with glue on the back side and wind it in profile. We make sure that the horizontal seams on both walls coincide. If we did everything right, then there should not be any special problems. We put curbs on the top row. Also follow the direction of the picture. All masonry is finished.

Important! During laying works, the tile, under which the adhesive layer is seized, it makes sense to wipe with a damp cloth. Seams should also be cleaned with a cross, a thin screwdriver, or something similar. If the tile did not fix on the solution, it is better to postpone this operation to a later time.

Preparing for grouting the apron

For grouting we need:

• capacity for grouting composition (usually a clean bucket or a bowl of 1-2 liters),
• rubber spatula, preferably softer, 8-10 cm in size,
• a piece of cable (for forming seams),
• a bucket and a detergent (ordinary washing powder, tile detergent, etc.),
• sponge or a set of rags.